South African Trip Journal

Oct 31 My trip started the night before.  I got on the redeye from LAX to come into NYC around 5:30AM.  We all met at Kennedy International where I first saw Rolf Adams and Marilyn and Rich Watson.  Anticipation grew as different ones joined us.  It would be such an adventure!
The flight across the Atlantic was really long--17 hours of airtime across the Atlantic. We tried to get up and walk, exercise feet, stand and we watched several movies.  My seat mates were Judy and Linda. South African airlines took impressive care to feed and hydrate us. When we arrived in Joberg and disembarked, we proceeded painlessly to get baggage…most of us. Sara Ann and Merrick found one suitcase ruined with the zippers ripped out, but it seemed nothing was taken. The airport ended up paying for a new suitcase. Our next flight was much shorter to Cape Town. There was no incident except for the one hour wait in queue to take off. Christian and Manuela, one of his right hand assistants with who was our main link before arriving and our problem solver during our stay, graciously met us with two buses. On arrival in Franschhoek the owner of the tour company gave us our cottage assignments. Carlie and I would share Cottage 1:  Pinot (cottages were named after varieties of wine). We had about 90 minutes to unwind, unpack anything and get ready for dinner. Most of our breakfasts and several dinners were at Lapa, a lakeside cabin-restaurant on the vineyard itself. For our first dinner we had lamb roasted on a spit, a fancy African dish, bobootie (hamburger), giant prawns, candied pumpkin and a veggie dish. Wine was served. Dessert was a crème brule, ice cream, and coffee. Scrumptious!

Nov 1 The bus picked us up at 8 am for breakfast at Lapa.  It was an exceptionally windy, chilly morning.  Korin, a vibrant young lady cook, made bread to go with an assortment of cereals, fruits, meats, cheeses, coffee, chai and of course, scrambled eggs. This basic menu was daily provided with a few variations. Next we loaded off to three water work factories. Christian has a great assembly line for his bottling of plain water, one for carbonated water and one for flavored carbonated waters. These go to various destinations mostly in Joberg. Water comes from 4 wells on the Chamonix property. Water is filtered 3 times through carbon. [Chris told me the night before that he had gotten a degree in mechanical engineering. All the machinery declared his gift of attention to detail! I guess that goes along with the engineer “hat”.] Although the third place was closed that week, we got to see it. The assembly line was basically the same in all 3 places, but the products were different. There was a day care center for pre-school children of the factory and farm workers with 6 to 10 children and 4 adults. Christian takes good care of his workers! From these water plants we went to the cellar where the wine is processed. Grapes are handpicked and bunches are hand sorted to remove split or gone-by grapes. Few wineries do the picking and sorting by hand, because it is labor intensive and costly. Next the grapes are crushed. His vintner, Gottfried, explained that the next action could be various depending on what grape for what wine. Any yeast used at Chamonix is “natural” and from the farm itself. Chris’ vintner studied 6 years in Germany and France, and then worked in those countries before coming to Chris with whom he has been since 2001. Both the ground floor and the basement floor were filled with vats and kegs. Gottfried explained why he chose what keg. The woods were from French or German forests, using 100 year old trees. The kegs “breathe” so they are filled completely. Once a month each wine is tasted or analyzed. Gottfried told us Chamonix is a small vineyard, and because Chris is into doing the impossible, Chris is willing to run the vineyard portion of his business life at a loss. It is more about quality and excellence in his mind!  Before Chamonix, Chris worked in the diamond industry. I am understanding that this is where he established himself as a man who got the job done and done right. When violence erupted in the diamond mines, Chris decided to move to vineyard and other enterprises. Today I believe Chris has interest in many concerns. We learned that Chamonix wines are in greater demand in French and British restaurants. Only recently has the wine started to appear in the US. There is a following also in Singapore and in Hong Kong. Much of the annual production is presold to established clients. A consistent reputation is being established. Gottfried described the learning process he has gone through to work wine. He shared that the learning curve was unique to each vineyard, and often to each field. Finally, we came to the tasting of 6 different wines:  two sauvignons (white, red), a chardonnay, a bordeaux, a champagne, and the “troika”, the signature wine, blended from 3 grapes.  It had a hearty and smooth flavor. Next we proceeded to Franschhoek, the town, for lunch at Chez d’Or. Chris met us there. I chose to eat light with a smoked salmon sandwich. After lunch we wandered the main street for an hour or so, where I found a lovely African dress, some gifts for the family and postcards. At 3 we met at a Huguenot church to get our bus and visit the Huguenot Museum. This lost some of its attraction in that most of the “info” was in Afrikaans, French or German, but not much in English! The grounds had lovely roses and sandy paths. There was an interesting “bushman” room with weapons, pottery and hut. From there we returned to cottages for a 2 hour free period. We were picked up at 6 for a lavish Indian meal at Chris’ Main House. There was a rassam soup, Chicken curry, chapattis, papadams, a veggie dish and mixed fruit for dessert. Wine, of course! The room and house had oak and teak and mahogany everywhere. For dinner we sat at a long table set with silver and crystal. One silver scene was an ornate candelabra with elephants and giraffe. The elegance could have entertained royalty!
Chris Hellinger was the son of German Lutheran missionaries to an area in the extreme Tamil Nadu south of India. Because he is a natural at languages, he readily picked up 3 languages: probably Tamil, Telugu and Hindi. At Kodai he lived at the German compound: Penrynn. He and Theo Speck (whom I remember as a gifted violinist) were both in our class. Christian managed to get into trouble often, but he credits our class as one of the most formative influences of his life.  He made friends (I forget how they met) with a sheik’s son, who ended up in Kodai at the Carlton Hotel located on one side of the Kodai campus just at the lake front.  This prince would get drunk and show up demanding Chris’ attention, becoming intrusive. Chris went to school officials for help with this. After Kodai, Chris returned to Germany for college. He worked a few jobs in Europe, where he married a German girl. When he decided to move to South Africa, she refused to move with him, and they divorced. He remarried and had two children with Sonia. After 20 years they broke up. Since then he has a doctor (anesthesiologist) girlfriend from Cuba who lives on an island off the coast of Namibia. Christian came into his own personal success after Kodai with a remarkable work ethic, a diligence to detail and an uncanny sense of the good deal. He showed us his deep passion for life, desire to do the right and a love of the Lord. It has been our privilege to see a compassionate and gentle side of him.

Nov 2 Today, after another hearty breakfast, we were off to visit 3 vineyards. Alymer Manko was our guide from the tour agency. He was a wonderful source of information and took turns riding in each of the 2 buses. At The Grand Province we tasted a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Shiraz and their signature wine: The Grand Province. Here we learned that if you do not like your first sip, find a biscuit, and the taste will change.  Clinking glasses adds the sense of hearing how your wine sounds.  Use all senses, we were told. Also, we learned that the darker the red color, the younger the wine. At The Vrede en Lust (Truth and Passion) we visited a 322 year old winery begun by Jacques de Se Bois, a Protestant who fled France for fear of persecution.  We sampled a dry Rose and were told to eat a strawberry 1st to bring out the flavor.  This winery also did hand harvests. Next we tasted a Sauvignon Blanc, not as crisp, in which you could taste pepper, asparagus, passion fruit (grandilla) and gooseberry.  Then came a Margarite Chardonnay with a mellow, fruity, oak flavor--good with pasta and creamy sauce.  That was followed by the Sarah Chardonnay, which goes well with Chicken and fish.  It had a fresh, crisp, pear flavor. Then came 3 reds:  Mocholate with a coffee, mocha, fruity flavor, a red that is best chilled; then a Syrah with hint of violets, plums, and sweet spice; and finally Boet Erasmus, a red to have with chocolate, elegant and ripe. Anika told us “The bigger the blessing, the bigger the responsibility.” She told us this one should be decanted. Here we went to their restaurant for lunch, where the fare was not heavy, but gourmet. The last winery was The Solms…which has 3 farms. There were 3 owners, the most famous, a brain surgeon. Here they practiced a unique method: desiccation, or the crushing of stems, that causes the grapes to become raisins. Also stones were placed at the roots of red wine grapevines to cause warmth day and night. This was a 3rd vineyard to hand harvest grapes between January and April. All work was done between 3 and 12 am, when the sugar levels are low, the alcohol low, resulting in a light tasting wine. They used stainless vats. First we tasted Vastrap, named after Dutch folk dance music. Next Solms Amalie, a Voignier and Grenache Blanc mix, with a crisp flavor. We learned that new growth happens between September and October. During this period they check irrigating systems and prune down to the most fruitful branches. In the first 2 years there is no income, in the 3rd and 4th years some fruit grows, in the 5th and 6th years wine can be bottled. When quality improves, labels can be created. The Dr took the advice of farm workers he “inherited” when he purchased the land. Their wisdom and experience benefited him to do so. Third, we tasted Solms Lekkerwijn, a rose, with 13% alcohol. It got so named because his name was too difficult to pronounce. He created a wine name to ask forgiveness for the fight between one owner and another.  Free run green juice was fermented apart from seeds and skins and then re-added.  Fourth was the Solms Afrikaaner, a shiraz, desiccated on the vine and then into new oak kegs, having a lighter vanilla flavor, but with a rich smell. Last, Cape Jazz, a shiraz, which as a carbonated and bubbly wine made a good pre-dinner drink or for BBQs or with spicy Indian foods.
I spoke with Alymer, our guide, and with Paul Gallant and Patrick Daniels, our two drivers, to ask them about their lives. These three men greatly enriched our stay in South Africa. Alymer Manko. Alymer grew up in the Paarl area. He is 33 now, and an only child, living with his parents. He went to Technicon to study the technology of computers, graduating in 1995. There were no jobs in his field readily available, so he worked at a retail company, as credit manager, and as assistant store manager for a year. Alymer had an interest in police training and applied for a police job. Then he found the opening he now has as tour guide!  Just as he had agreed to become a tour guide, the police opportunity came open, but as he had given his word, he turned it down. That says a lot for his integrity in my book. Alymer has an interest in martial arts, but at this time in his life, with his often crazy schedule, he is not able to keep his hand in it. There is no time for a social life right now either. In the future he would like to return to studies in the computer science/business world with an emphasis on risk management. He has an awesome German shepherd. Alymer was always positive, always upbeat. He is an incredible fount of knowledge in history, fauna and flora, and of the wine industry itself. We truly enjoyed him as our guide!  Linda is already looking to find him a lady! Paul Gallant. Paul drove the bus I was on. Paul grew up in Cape Town on a farm.  Genadeldown(?). He came out of a big family of 12. From there he moved to the city of Belhaar for his school and young adult years. He married Rachel in 1962. They have 4 children of their own and have adopted 2. Paul has a heart for children, especially orphans and he would love to open places for street/orphan children to get care and parenting. He has been a bus driver for 25 years. As a retiree he can free lance when he wants. Paul plays the guitar with a love for gospel music. Paul watches TBN. His hobbies include golf and music. Rachel takes care of the family. We really appreciated his care of us, his watchfulness for needs and his humor!! Patrick Daniels. Patrick drove the bus for those in cottages inside the gate. He came from Saltriver, near Cape Town. He went to school and grew up there. His parents left when he was young and Patrick was raised by his elder brother. Patrick married at 21 to Veronica. They had 2 boys and 3 girls, although one child died at 7 days. His eldest son is married, and has given him 4 grands. Patrick has always been involved in gospel music, and is born again. He goes to gospel vigils. He plays a saxophone in church, and he participates in Christmas music. He was a pastor until recently, when he stepped down to encourage a younger man to grow into leadership. Veronica loves to visit old people. Her Mom is 96!
After a short rest time, we loaded up to drive to Stellenbosch’s Bukhara Restaurant for another amazing Indian dinner. First, they brought out appetizers, and then they brought 3 kinds of curry, veggies, naan. They ended with a cumin ice milk desert. Back to Chamonix.

Nov. 3 We loaded up after breakfast (love the real home baked bread!), bound for Cape Peninsula. We saw SA Penguins at the Boulders Beach. They have created a protected area and breeding shelters for them. This species is just barely off the endangered list. Next we bused up the coast to Cape of Good Hope. On our return trip the lead bus broke down. Luckily, the bus behind was able to load everyone onto laps or into the aisle. This day trip ended with a lovely dinner at Mon Plaisir Restaurant, French cuisine, at Chamonix. There was a choice of 3 openers: a tomato soup, a salad or a venison creation; then 2 main courses, a beef bérnaise or a baked fish; and finally 3 deserts to choose from. I chose an apple tart. There was also a crème brule and one other. It was back to Chamonix cottages.

Nov. 4 Today was foggy and drizzly. Our first stop was Table Top Mountain. Visibility was zero when we got there. Nonetheless most of us took the funicular to the top of Table Mountain. Luckily, we found a lady Brit guide who knew her plants. Some of the flower families had 250 species!  From there we proceeded to Lion Head Mt., pausing at the top to hear the 12 noon canon, a practice started to coordinate military and naval activity. Some of us went to Robben Island where Mandela was imprisoned 17 years. From above the city we could also see the World Cup stadium as we headed to a waterfront restaurant for lunch in the Mt. Nelson Hotel.  What a magnificent buffet! I had curry…and 2 desserts. There were so many choices. We were on our own at the largest S. A. shopping mall. Paul, our driver, had recommended The Heart of Africa store, so that is where I headed with about 6 others. I was looking for family gifts. I figured this year Christmas will be African. Dinner was our choice at the waterfront. We ate light--I had a salad. That night we all repacked so as to take one suitcase on our 4 day Garden Route tour.

One of the things I determined in my mind to do on this trip was to find out what each one of us has been doing since Kodai. I sought each one out, and asked. So here are my findings: Carlie Radlove.  Carlie’s family worked in Kerala. Her Dad oversaw a Christian Childrens’ Foundation orphanage. Later he moved to Korea where he oversaw 90 orphanages all over South Korea from headquarters in Seoul. In 2001 Carlie went back to India and found someone who knew her Dad, and who lived in his house now. It is no longer an orphanage, but a school. After college, Carlie married Craig, a coworker at IBM. They had 10 years together and one daughter, Caryn Ami. Craig died when Caryn was 10, of a rare disease that hardens skin and organ tissues (systemic scleroderma). It became very painful. Craig was an electrical engineer. Part of their career was in Maryland, then they moved to Florida, then to Minnesota and back to Louisiana. After Craig’s death, Carlie moved back to Maryland where she has a lot of family. She has especially kept her friendship with Nancy Kleinheksel. Carlie has had many different jobs since Craig’s death. She worked in hospices, for the Enterprise Foundation, and in a child advocacy center as personal assistant to the Director of the National Center for Victims of Crime. Carlie has helped them advocate for laws to protect victims.  Caryn’s expertise is in graphics design and art history (she’s about half done with her dissertation for her PhD). Even as Carlie had been on this trip Caryn has been in great transition. Her British husband, who presently is in environmental work for the Smithsonian, just informed her he was leaving, and Caryn just got accepted to teach at a university in Delaware in her field. Carlie recently lost her job as a legal assistant, so this is a time of transition for her as well. Caryn has two sons Sammy, 4 ½  and Jake 2 ½ . They all live with Carlie. Thank goodness for the strength of family to help each of us carry through challenges! Linda Penn-Davies.  I had not met Linda previously, as she came in the junior year, when I was already in the US. Linda was only in Kodai for ½ her junior year, and her senior year.  She was born in Nevada (Basic Town Site #1), now Henderson. Linda’s Dad built the hospital there.  She went back to Grand Rapids until the junior year of high school. Then when her Dad was to build the hospital in Bahrain, she came to Kodai. Later she worked for British American Petroleum Co, where she met her husband, a captain in the British navy. They were married in 1961 and moved to Grand Rapids. By April her husband was managing Lincoln Mercury in Michigan. Her first daughter was born in 1963, twin boys were born in 1967 and a daughter in 1969. When they divorced in 1971 her ex moved to Australia. Linda raised the children alone. Son Stephan died in 2006 of the cure for cancer (Linda’s words). God took him while he was praising God. Linda was picked by Dillan to be his mistress. Dillan is a dog with mucho personality. Linda went on a mission trip to the Ivory Coast to check on churches and look for mission possibilities. She brought rice to distribute and came back realizing how blest we all are. Linda wants to do more mission trips. Rolf Adams. After Kodai Rolf lived with his folks while he finished his senior HS year. Then he went to Linfield College where his Dad was a professor, and lived on campus. Rolf joined the Coast Guard to become a pilot, flying out of Elizabeth City, NC. A man of many talents, Rolf has done a lot of different things, including being a fireman. He holds BS in Civil Engineering, BS in Electrical Engineering, BS in Computer Science, BS in Business Administration, BS in Advanced Math. And he is Culinary Institute trained. He also holds a degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management. At one point he owned and ran a restaurant. When he was stationed in Connecticut, he visited Chet and me. He was married for 19 years to his first wife. Rolf married again and had 24 years with his 2nd wife before she died of breast cancer. During her sickness, he did substituted to cover his wife’s teaching position as she was going through cancer treatments. There were children from both marriages. There were two boys and 1 girl from the 1st marriage, and 1 girl from the 2nd.  Rolfs’ 3rd wife already had 2 girls. She prefers home but has been graciously able to free Rolf to travel. Nancy Nykerk Kleinheksel. After graduation from Kodai Nancy went to Holland, Michigan, which was the original home of her parents. She attended Hope College for 2 years prior to attending Bronson Methodist Hospital School of Nursing. Nancy worked as a registered nurse for 41 years and retired in 2008. Nancy has two children, son Dave who is a police officer lives in Aurora, CO; and daughter, Sue, who is an accountant, living in Ohio.  Nancy has 4 grandchildren. Nancy currently lives in Aurora, CO and enjoys spending time with her brother Dave and his family.  The most significant event in Nancy’s life was the death of her father at age 52. Her most rewarding event was the birth of her two children. Being at Kodai School was an important part of her life and she appreciates the friendships from that experience. David and Mary Nykerk. After leaving Kodai Dave achieved a degree to teach English, which he did for 35 years. Kudos to Miss Unruh and Carlie! Mary taught 3rd grade. They have traveled on vacations. Then Dave got the golden handshake and retired on 90% salary. Dave wrote me “Here is some more info. about our lives. In 2001, when we visited Bahrain where I was born, we also visited Kuwait, to see my dad's grave which we hadn't visited since he died in 1964. After that we did tour India and Jane Cummings was the tour guide. We do spend two months in Holland, Michigan, each year in a small cottage on Lake Michigan; and we live four months each year (January-April) in Hemet, California. Our favorite activity is spending time with our grandchildren. (We visit them where they live in Glenwood Spring, CO and camp with them, etc.) Our next favorite activity is traveling. Besides the places already mentioned, we have visited former exchange students in Brazil and the Netherlands. In the ten years that we have been retired we've visited the Solomon Islands, where our son and his wife were in the Peace Corps and Senegal, where our daughter lived for a year. We also loved Egypt, Nepal, Hawaii, etc. but now I'm giving you too much information!! We have also traveled extensively in the U.S., mostly with a "pop-up" camper. Lately, we have discovered that cruising is fun!” Marilyn and Rich Watson. Marilyn was back home in the States, in CA, for just about 10 days before bussing off to Pacific University in Oregon. Carol went to Willamette, so it was the first time the twins had been separated and on their own. It was not an easy adjustment on many levels.  Marilyn experienced looking American but not really speaking like one, missing all the cultural clues (boy, do I understand that one!) and staring in awe at her new American classmates. She transferred to San Francisco State and lived near Carol who was at UCSF. Marilyn studied pre-med for nursing, but a Physics requirement added at the eleventh hour changed everything, and she finished up her degree in International Relations. When asked: “What will a woman do in International Relations?”(this was still the 60s!) she joined the Peace Corps to answer the question. Years teaching English in Thailand and then working for Peace Corps/DC were good years for Marilyn to begin to find herself. From DC she moved back to CA where she studied counseling in middle schools near Oakland. Of memories in India, the outstanding memory was the relationship the Stenger family developed with the Nehrus. They lived up north, unlike most Kodiates, and besides their dad working with Nehru on a couple development projects, the twins notably celebrated a few birthdays in the Nehru home. PM Nehru shared the same birthday. Marilyn also remembers camping in the jungle, elephant rides at dawn, peacock for Thanksgiving, Diwali lights on the roofs throughout town, hiking the Kodai hills, punting picnics on the lake and Edith Ford’s chocolate cake. In 1974 she met Rich. Their dads had worked together in the Oakland YMCA before the twins were born, before the Stengers moved to Hawaii and on out to India. A friend from Rich’s childhood ended up studying next door to the Stengers in Lucknow. She later sealed their fate when Marilyn reconnected with her back in CA and brought them together. Rich and Marilyn had one son, Aran, as well as beautiful grandkids from Rich’s two kids. In addition there are others as well who make theirs a happily extended family. At this point in their lives, Rich and Marilyn are on the road to retirement. “Retire” to them, means ‘to get new wheels,’ so they will be moving out into the world with a new focus before long, hoping to help people, organizations, and communities live with conflict, and to practice a Meditative Way of being in relationship. Carol and Henry (Guy) Lee. The 60s for Carol included re-entry into the USA, going to college in Oregon and then at University of California, Davis, and eventually going to nursing school at University of California, SF. She also got married, and had a son during this time. These were adjustment years as a “third culture kid.” She got her MS in 1970, and later her Marriage and Family Therapy License. Carol worked full time for many years. In 1981 Carol met Guy and they married a year later. They started a new business, had a child and settled in San Mateo. Carol says they have been in business for themselves since the early 80’s, and happily both are able to continue the work which keeps them “young.” Their 2 sons are both settled, married and they have 7 grandkids. Their daughter graduated from Pepperdine Law School and recently passed the CA Bar. “We are grateful for good health and vitality. And we are grateful to God who has been faithful to us through the years.” Sara Ann and Merrick Lockwood. After Kodai Sara Ann got a BS in Physical Therapy; Merrick went to Oberlin and then did a Peace Corps Term in Serra Leone.  Upon returning with his pet chimpanzee, Susie, he pursued a MS in entomology.  After meeting Sara Ann in DC one summer they became engaged. Soon after they were married however, Susie was given to the Tulsa Oklahoma Zoo. Merrick continued with his PhD studies in grain storage technology at Kansas State University. A bonus was two years in Mysore, India, to do his research. By this time their first child, Ian, had arrived and upon returning from Mysore their second son, Brian was born. Studies completed, they joined International Volunteer Services to Bangladesh. Sara Ann established a Physiotherapy department at Mymensingh Medical College; Merrick worked at a Roman Catholic parish assisting them with grain storage issues and maintaining their power tillers. After their stint as volunteers they moved from a rural setting to the capital city of Dhaka. Sara Ann opened up a home Physiotherapy practice and found a job with Dhaka International School as the secretary to the superintendent, and later as the registrar. Ian was born in Kansas and Brian in Virginia and in 1977 they adopted Maya in Bangladesh. In the following years Merrick was employed by USAID, Asia Foundation, Lutheran World Services and others. His work involved developing a Sterling engine as well as a women’s silk project.  Finding funding and writing up proposals for Merrick’s work, took time and didn’t necessarily provide for the expensive school fees and housing. So it was that in ’79 and ’80 Sara Ann connected with Kodai, first as a housemother (then the boys could go to school there). When the Project got approved Sara Ann and the children returned to Dhaka. Brian and Maya went to school at the American Inter-national School/Dhaka while Ian continued at Kodai. Sara Ann became Registrar. In 94 Sara Ann came to Boston to rescue their home from abusive renters. Merrick remained in Bangladesh. Maya attended Northfield Mount Hermon in western Massachusetts, and Brian was at Wentworth Institute of Technology in Boston. Then in’97 Sara Ann returned to Kodai as Director of Admissions until Jan of 2007. In 1980 Merrick and Sara Ann began leasing Shelton cottage, Kodai’s very first house built in 1845. In March 2007 Sara Ann and Merrick retired and returned to their family ancestral home outside of Boston. Since then Sara Ann has become a registered yoga teacher and more recently taken people on two different tours back to India. Her next tour, South India Sights and Sounds, will take place Jan 20 to Feb 10, 2011. They presently live in the family home in Milton. They are looking forward to a Christmas family reunion in Sri Lanka. Merrick likes to work in his workshop making sterling engines and fixing things such as electric generation pumps for rice mills. His interests range from zoology, biology, and entomology to grain science. He has done a lot in agricultural technology. For fun Merrick likes bird watching and photography. Jim and Karen Allen. After graduation from Kodai, Jim returned with his family to New Delhi and spent the summer working as an unofficial intern with the agricultural research projects of the Rockefeller Foundation. In the fall he flew to the United States and college in the premedical program at the University of Redlands in southern California.  His major distraction from the dominance of science courses and labs was working on the award-winning college newspaper, including being faculty adviser his senior year.  Learning to write and edit quickly and succinctly, he says, has been as important throughout his career as any other skill he possesses. 
After college, Jim slogged through 8 years of medical, public health, and pediatric training at the Johns Hopkins University and hospital in Baltimore, sustained primarily by his marriage to Karen-Marie Nordberg in 1968.  It was a long, focused tunnel, he says, and he missed involvement in all the major social changes taking place in the United States during the late 1960s and early 1970s. 
Jim's approach to work and life tends to be broad-based and inter-disciplinary rather than super-specialized.  He expected to work internationally much of his career, but the opportunities and choices opening before him dictated otherwise.  The one major exception was a 3-month assignment as part of a United Nations sponsored nutritional assessment in rural Bangladesh in 1972 just six months after the country won its independence. 
Jim's public health work at the Centers for Disease Control in Atlanta placed him in the middle of the early work on the AIDS epidemic starting in 1982, and he wound up in Washington, DC, as an Assistant Surgeon General and Director of the National AIDS Program Office from 1989 through 1992.
Since leaving the Public Health Service Jim has worked as a vice president for science and public health at the American Medical Association in Chicago, director of the Arizona state health department, and president of the American Social Health Association, a not-for-profit health education organization, in Raleigh, NC.  Although Jim officially retired several years ago, he has remained busy as a part-time consultant, volunteer (he is currently on the boards of 3 not-for-profit health organizations), grandfather, and with his photography hobby.  He also enjoys camping, hiking, and bicycling.
Karen has been active and busy over the years as wife, mother, and librarian/media specialist.  Her employment focus has migrated from school-based media work to special library projects, children's library supervisor, and now branch manager for a local history and genealogy library in Raleigh.  Jim and Karen have parented four children (three adopted, each with a unique set of circumstances), and now enjoy special activities and trips with their adult children and 7 grandchildren (ages 1 to 12).  They credit their canine companions for any success they have had in raising children; they are particular advocates of West Highland White Terriers.
Both Jim and Karen have been active in their church communities over the years, but they note they have not been doctrinaire, having migrated with their moves around the country from the American Baptist to the Friends, Presbyterian, Southern Baptist (their church was thrown out of the convention for hiring a woman as associate minister), United Church of Christ, and currently Episcopalian denominations. Barbara and George Parker. Barbi started as a nursing major at Duke but changed her major to English at Andrews Presbyterian and majored in English. Somewhere along the way she began going by Barbara instead of her childhood name Barbi (but she still answers to either!) She moved to Raleigh to work and in Jan ‘67 married George Parker, whom she had met just before graduation.  Barbara worked in a kindergarten until Elizabeth was born in ’69. She became involved in La Leche League in NC and remained active for 20 years learning invaluable, marketable skills along the way. In ’74 Jonathan was born and in ’81 to William. Also in ’81 she was appointed Administrator of LLL in NC, and in ’88 she was appointed Administrator of LLL to the Mid-Atlantic States. While she was a mother at home, she was a foster mother to three adoptive infants in addition to her own three. In 1990 she was diagnosed with 2 breast cancers, a parathyroid tumor and osteoporosis; had 6 surgeries and 10 months of chemo. As a result of these experiences, Barbara became passionate about cancer research. She was active in lobbying the federal Congress for increased research and funding. She educated herself about medical and science research and in ’96 she was hired by the Duke Breast Cancer Research Program. Initially she was responsible for an interdisciplinary newsletter, but she also was invited to give input into research discussions. Barbara sat on various committees for the National Cancer Institute and became part of two clinical trial cooperative groups. These groups designed clinical trials to compare newer protocols with standard ones. Her research advocacy activities included evaluating research grants, public speaking and writing about the advocate role in the clinical research process. Barbara retired in 2006 and is enjoying traveling in their small motor home with George who also retired in 2006 from teaching Physics at NC State. After his adoptive Mom died in ’09 George was able to identify his birth parents’ families. His contact with his maternal siblings, who live in Colorado, has had a happy result, and he is currently contemplating whether to contact his paternal siblings.  During their travels Barbara and George visited several AZ/UT canyon National Parks in ’04, traveled in Alaska is ’05, worked in the NC mountains in ’07, and in Yellowstone in ’06 and /10.  Judy Tegenfeldt Fenlasen. Judy was one of 6 children!  She has 4 children and now 8 grands. Judy and Cliff arrange and take medical teams to Vietnam. She and Cliff have worked in Korea and Russia and are now making beautiful Gig Harbor, WA, their home. They still travel to Vietnam a couple times each year. She has spent quite a bit of time with sister, Alice, who has a serious cancer. God willing she will beat it. There is certainly the family support for her. Eleanor and Joe Rice. After graduating with the Class of ’61 from Kodai, Eleanor left India with her parents and her brother for San Diego, where her family had a year of furlough. Eleanor studied a year in San Diego City College, and then did a year at Kelly School of Business. She lived with her grandmother on Point Loma and helped care for her. Eleanor met her future husband who was a Navy Lt stationed on Point Loma in a scuba diving class. They married and thus began 25 years of moving and living all over the world. They had time in Hawaii, Australia, Japan, up and down the West Coast, and time at the Pentagon in Washington, DC. For many years they came and went from their farm in Western PA below Pittsburg. Eleanor spent many happy summers there growing huge gardens and canning and putting up food with Mother Julia. They have one son Joseph, who is a graduate of Penn State and has given Eleanor and Joe five wonderful grands, aged 10, 8, 6, 5, and 3. After Joe retired from the Navy in 1984, they had three years in England where Joe worked for the Navy in computer programming.  He then retired again. This time they sold the PA farm and moved to TN to raise Suffolk Punch draft horses. Many of our class enjoyed time there for our 30th reunion.  After 8 wonderful, fun years of hard work, they sold the farm and moved to Bloomington, Indiana, to be near their son and his family in Indianapolis. Being in Bloomington for 11 years is longest time they have spent in one place since they got married! They just celebrated their 46th wedding anniversary and love serving the Lord in the local church where Joe is the treasurer and a deacon.  Eleanor mentors young women whose husbands are going into ministry. She also works to encourage young mothers to love their husbands and children, and to be good keepers of their homes with God’s daily strength and help.  She takes care of her 92 year old Mother Julia who lives just across the yard in a small apartment that Julia calls her “bird house.” Diane Bennett. Richard Cheek. Diane came to Kodai in 1960 and 1961. Her uncle had been sent to Bombay (Mumbai) as a journalist for the State Department.  Her aunt and uncle invited her to join them for the year in India and she was thrilled! Kodai had an American curriculum so it was an obvious choice for her senior year. After her Kodai year Diane returned to California and got a teaching degree. She has taught primary grades for 30 years. Diane lives in CA with her husband Richard in San Clemente. Richard met Diane 20 years ago when they were both active in the Sierra Club. Richard runs a family owned metal stamping business, but is soon to retire. He and Diane plan to do more of the things they enjoy together which include:  grandchildren, travel, sailing and hiking. Peggy Kornberg. Peggy was in Kodai through the high school years. Then she went to Minneapolis for the nursing program at Swedish Hospital. Peggy’s parents were transferred from India to Quito, Equador in 1968. (When Jack and Peggy visited them in 1980, Peggy got altitude sickness. Her Dad and Mom were teachers with the Christian Missionary Alliance group.) When she was charge nurse on the post-operative floor in Orange County Medical Center in 1972, Peggy met Jack. They were married in 1974. Keri and Chad are their two children. Keri lives an hour away in Port Orchard, WA. Chad flies the A10 for Idaho National Guard. Chad also is a pilot with Alaska Airlines. Chad has two children. Jack and Peggy worked together from 1976 to 2008--she as his office nurse. Jack and Peggy closed their practice at the end of 2008, and Peggy got to retire.  Jack now works for a nutraceutical company and does a lot of speaking on health issues, so they are privileged to travel a lot. Garry Schmidt. Garry left Kodai after the 7th grade for what expected to be a one-year furlough.  His family did not return to India because their denomination wanted them to save travel costs by having Garry and Garth stay in Canada with relatives. Instead, his family moved from Canada to settle near relatives in Fresno, CA where Garry attended HS.  He attended Fresno Pacific University, where he met Lois; then Moody Bible Institute, completing a double major in history and Biblical studies. After finishing his BA Lois and Garry, now married, went to Congo (ak Zaire) to teach: Garry taught Social Studies and Lois 2nd grade. During this 6 year stint their two daughters, Annika and Heidi, were born. Their son Andre was born after they returned to CA, where Garry attended grad school for a MA in Rehab counseling. Garry worked in adult rehab for 2 years in Bakersfield, Ca, before moving into special education. During 28 years in special education Garry and Lois took time out for a year in the Phillipines (‘86,’87) and 2 years in Kenya (’94-’96), working with Wycliffe Bible Translators to assist with MK education.  After retiring in June ’07 they visited Turkey for a month, which led to an opportunity to teach English in Egypt for three months. This time in the Middle East added to Garry’s growing interest in the Middle East Conflict and interfaith studies, particularly as it involves Muslim/Christian relations. Nancy Towle Guiles. I will be sharing the journal, so here is my story:  I left Kodai after my sophomore year and lived one year with Mom in Amherst, MA. Dad was back in India. My parents were with the same mission board as Sara Ann and Merrick, only in Maharashtra. Dad was a minister who also held degrees in agriculture and mechanical engineering. I was always extremely proud of Mom because she had a future view of missions. She did not want the women to whom she taught Bible to become dependent, but rather to be able to walk forward in faith and skills. When Mom returned to India, I finished high school at Northfield. Mom, Jean and Alice had gone there also. I chose to do this because Northfield was a familiar boarding school experience, and I did not want to return to the US alone later. One of my close friends introduced me to Chet Guiles. We married the next year. Our first 10 years were in Guilford, CT.  After that we moved several times following job changes for Chet: South Carolina, PA, SC, DE and finally 3 different locations in CA. Steve was born in CT in ’72, Dave in SC in ’73. They are both married and we have 4 grands on which we dote. Although I taught before the boys were born, I took time out when they were preschool. I got back to it in PA when Dave was in Grade 1. I picked up teaching again in CA and have taught 19 years in all, mostly in special ed. One of my passions has been prayer. I have worked with a prayer movement in CA and at one point organized prayer for our county…got 176 of 178 hours a week covered with someone praying.  I even wrote a prayer manual for us all to pray with some unity of mind and heart. As far as education goes I got a BS in Early Childhood, a MS in Special Ed and a MS in Theology.  I opened our home for a small house church for a few years, but feel my real call is to help the Lord’s work in India, among a group of untouchables in Maharashtra that my folks worked with. We have a school for blind children and about 9 house churches.  I have been back to do training, and encouragement and ministry about 2 times since that began.  Hope to be able to return again. But I am retired, as is Chet.  He was a mid-level exec in a manufacturing company that made high tech materials for the circuit board industry, the military, the phone industry, and even for household items such as slow cookers. He is an expert in materials and processes in his industry, and continues to keep his hand in one morning a week. His hobbies include photography and various strategy games that he plays internationally with different partners. In retirement Chet has become very active in his church, as deacon, as Bible teacher, and as Sunday school teacher.  I am also teaching a Bible study to ladies in my church. I have a big dream for the work in India, but God will have to bring me to the means.  In His time I believe He will. This trip has meant a great deal to me.  It has been wonderful to meet or reacquaint myself with you all.

 Nov 5 We got started right after a totally awesome breakfast. There were breath-taking landscapes as we proceeded from the Franschhoek Valley east and north through mountain passes. First it was all vineyard, and dairy, but then it began changing to scrubby terrain with mountains and valleys. It became more forested with farms for ostrich, sheep and wheat. I know Jim and Dave got some great pictures. We stopped at one place to get scenes looking down on verdant valley farms. By noon we had arrived at the Game Reserve. After a hearty buffet lunch, we went on our first drive through the reserve. Hannes, our driver, was head guide and a very passionate man about the animals. First, he pointed out Red Bishop birds in the reedy areas. The males’ feathers actually turn red during mating season… to attract females, of course. Survival of the fittest was one prevailing theme of the day. Next we came upon 6 Cape buffalo. Hannes had not seen them in several days, so he was particularly excited. These buffalo kill more people than do lions, elephants, rhinos, or hippos combined! If wounded they disappear into the bush, and if a hunter foolishly tracks a wounded animal, the buffalo will circle back and hunt him!  A revenge seeking and dangerous animal!  Also they cooperate to protect each other. Cape buffalo can run 50 kph. We saw a group of 7 Kudo, a very shy large antelope, whose horns are fixed through the skull. Their ears swivel almost 360 degrees and their hearing is great. This was another surprise find. Drives miss them often. Then came the wildebeest herd, led by a dominate male. He defends his right to be sole breeder for all the females. His supremacy is won by strength against all other young bucks, and usually lasts only one season.  All bachelors are either on their own, alone or form up in small pods to hang out together. Close by were springbok. We saw them do “pronking,” a stiff legged up and down prancing, initiated by fright. One in a herd pronking can contagiously ripple pronking to all. Hannes explained that most predators see in black and white. Springbok have a white patch in the rear, helpful for babies to follow mama, but to hide from lions, they simply sit in the grass, and blend, because their backs and sides are a brown. These remarkable creatures can live in low rainfall, high temperature areas without water up to 90 days. Another great natural feature is the black stripe both sides of the rear. These absorb heat and detour insects that would irritate. So they turn their backs to the sun! Ibis with their weird cry flew overhead with regularity. We came on the 3 rhino:  the dominant male, the female mama, and the young female calf. Mama made sure that mister stayed separate from the calf, as males are known to kill off young before they can become competition. The male was 2 ½ tons, mama 1 ½ tons and babe was 800 kilos. Smell and hearing of rhinos are excellent, but sight is only 2.5 meters. We saw a lot of blue crane here in the wheat-ostrich-sheep lands. These lovely birds are only found in SA, with only 11,000 left. They pair for life. There were impala, the most common antelope species and 3 reebok flitted in and out of our vision. Then we came upon 3 giraffe (papa, mama and baby):  beautiful, graceful creatures. We got very close to them. We saw that the parents are very protective. The reason we saw no cheetah loosed was because of the baby giraffe. The keepers wanted to give the baby time to get large enough to survive. The cheetahs keep the prolific springbok and impala to reasonable numbers without taking too many. We had car trouble. Our vehicle had tire problems so Hannes called for help. The helper forgot to give him a gate opener when we changed to our new vehicle (a sort of jeep, lower to the ground). On the way out, we found the 6 Cape buffalo again. Apparently the replacement vehicle was used for supplemental feeding; they came pretty close. Hannes did not want to stay too long there--so with help to open the gate, out we went. It was a very exciting drive through the reserve!  We proceeded right on to the bar for a complimentary sherry, and then a few minutes to change for dinner.  Buffet is the main method in serving food to larger groups. They gave us 2 or three main course choices, plus several veggie and fruit choices, even a grill chef, and desserts. Delicious!

Nov 6 Breakfast first, and then one more drive through to see lion and elephant before going to the reptile center. They had 3 lions, which had come from a place where lions were raised to be shot by hunters…for a price. They were not fair game. Hunters paid to shoot them in small enclosures, and then they got displayed as though it had been a huge safari game hunt. It took some time for these 3 (he had 2 females) to act normal in a large paddock area. Apparently, sex is very painful for the female lion, and the male treats her roughly in order to hold her down…she would wound him badly if he did not. He mates many, many times per day during his season. The females find the prey, bring it down, and he comes in for the kill. The king gets first feed. He is another male who will kill young male competition. Hannes pointed out restios, a reed used to do the thatching of roofs.  It was used by Bushman to paint, like a brush. Each stem separates several times at the joints leaving a pointy area, perfect for painting. They had 2 elephants together in a special paddock. This pair of elephants grew up together and are closely bonded. The male could grow to 11.2 tons. The trunk is a versatile limb. Hannes gave us his email  to ask questions or communicate for any reason: reservations@grgamelodge.co.za We now walked over, after breakfast, to the reptile center. They had: Cape cobra, green mamba, black mambas, reticulated python, Thai rat snake, Corn snake, yellow rat snake, puff adder, western diamond back, rock monitor, several crocs, milk snake, albino king snake and a king snake. In SA the two most dangerous are the cape cobra and the puff adder. The Cape cobra only rises to strike 18, 20” and goes for the legs. The puff adder is more dangerous. They look a lot our rattlers (but no rattle).  These are not fearful of man, hide, and even chase to strike from behind. After packing up we went through the Robinson Pass. We stopped for a very large tortoise to cross the road.  The other bus went on ahead. We came down on the Oudtshoorn side arriving at the Cango Caves, but had lunch first at a restaurant there. I had a fried cheese, ham and tomato sandwich.  Our guide took us through the caves:  Fanceil Hall was the name for Cave 1.  It was very large and spacious.  It had both stalactites (ceiling), and stalagmites (floor) and pillars. One pillar was called The Leaning Tower of Pisa and estimated to be 207,000 years old. Bothas Hall was Cave 2. This was found 70 years after the first cave. In it was featured “the petrified weeping willow tree” estimated to be 3 ½ million years. Colors represented different elements. Grey was from manganese.  White was from chalk. Algae produced green. Brown was from iron. Next, Cave 3, was called The Rainbow Chamber.People saw good and evil:  on one side a book (Bible), a cross and an angel’s wing; on the other scary features. Animals are found in the caves:  bats, cockroaches, lice, and spiders. A river had run through to form the caves. Cave 4 was called The Bridal Room or Honeymoon Suite with its 14 poster “bed”.  There were “cave babies” or stalactites only 400-500 years old.  They grow 4 to 6 mm per 100 years. The stalagmites grow 6-12 mm per 100 years. Cave 5 was Fairy Land, now, Disaster Land, because tourists have broken off pieces.  Still there is a “sunflower” and “ostrich”. Cave 6 was the African cave. There was an African sky drum, a hollow column that had drum-like resonance. Our guide demonstrated the drum carefully. Some columns were semi translucent. If pre-arranged there was another area called the Adventure Tour with Jacob’s Ladder. It had 680 steps in very narrow areas. One or two heavy people have gotten stuck there. The last cave was used for concerts until vandalism made them close it down. Fantastic acoustics! I sang Silent Night. Some told me it sounded like more than one part because of the resonant acoustics! We arrived at the Berluda guest house. It had unbelievably beautiful rooms with oriental rugs, antiques, paintings and photographs. We sat down to a 4 course meal with linen and crystal. The gardens were exquisitely cared for. Birds nested and sang everywhere. One or two large pens had ostrich babies, with a ma and pa in charge. Pa seemed more committed to that work!

Nov 7 As it was the Lord’s Day I read Ps 24 at breakfast (which included ostrich eggs). Several came up and thanked me after. We came to a nearby ostrich farm. The guide there, Jacobus, told us about the signs of male “heat”—red bills and red legs. Females may or may not receive him. Apparently males usually have 5 females on their string. It seems both are involved with baby care, but the male seems more committed. It takes 42 days to incubate a fertile egg. Marilyn and Mary rode ostriches!  Then the farmhands showed us how the professionals do it. On through the Oudtshoorn Pass we saw ostriches everywhere; then more and more trees. Some places had scrubby terrain, others had sheep grazing. The Indian Ocean coast seems to be a great vacation area.  People buy homes for the summer. There are lakes inland from the coast. Knysna was founded by George III. It is known for its bay with oyster beds. We went shopping and had lunch in the wharf area. Dinner after a rest was aboard a cruise paddleboat. We cruised the bay while we ate. In Knysna we were at the Russel Hotel above the town, a very clean and lovely hotel. 

Nov 8 They started our days (2) off with coffee, bread, meats, fruit, toast, muffins.  I think they even had waffles, but I chose the great breads toasted. Today we visited “The Garden of Eden”.  It was mostly trees on a path of raised wooded walkways. There were some wildflowers. The trees were old, tall, with great girths; some felled and lying on the ground with mossy cover.  Many were labeled. There were ferns and fronds and a stream running throughout. It was Enrico’s for lunch. I shared a Hawaiin pineapple and ham pizza with Linda. We proceeded to a lookout over the Plettenberg Bay, seeing the “head,” a place where the shoreline gapped to protect the bay. A few in the group lingered to watch a whale. I missed that. That night we had dinner at the Dry Dock Restaurant. I had salad, steak and an apple strudel. Rolf, Diane and Richard shared the table with me.

Nov 9 It took all day to return to Franschhoek, but what a beautiful drive! The route in reverse was by using different passes, a more direct route. We stopped in Robertson for lunch. They served a waterlily stew…but I had a chicken pot pie with mushrooms and salad on the side. As we came into the Franschhoek Valley we could look down on Chris’ Chamonix. He has such an idyllic setting:  green, orderly, peaceful, and luscious. There was only time to dump bags and change for dinner. This time we went into Franschhoek to the Allora Restaurant, Italian cuisine. I had a veal dish. Chris met us and we all shared the evening.

Nov.10 This would be our last full day at Chamonix. Chris had a day trip to Langergaan planned for us. It was 12:30 when we arrived.  We hurried off to the bathrooms which were portapotties,  an experience I had not had since a fair day “on the Guilford town green.” The setting was like a pirate cove, rustic tables with canvas and netting draped overhead to keep sun and gulls off us. Food was readied one dish at a time. First was fresh baked bread from their open ovens, served with a helping of garlic mussels. Then followed a millet fish baked on coals. In another 20 minutes came a lamb and waterlily stew, then an angel fish, then crawfish, and we were not able to stay for the shrimp and the coffee courses. Time constrained us to depart for our final dinner with Chris at Lapa. Chris had generously found me a sports carry-all to extend my space for the return trip. In our cottage Chris had left a snack and a gift of an African painting, folk art from the “townships.”  I will treasure it as a keepsake memory. As we came in Chris had the children of his workers regale us with songs and a short speech. They sang the African anthem and the Clock song from “the Sound of Music”…the lyrics were adapted to Chamonix circumstance. It was precious.  Children ranged from grade 1st to 6th and 7th.  We sat down for “starters” of a chapatti rolled with a curried potato filling, a samosa, and a fresh salad. Then came the main course—about 4 different curries from a buffet, and chutneys on the table. Dessert was a piece of gulab jaman with a custard. I sat near Merrick, Sara Ann, Barb and George Palmer, Carlie Radlove and Eleanor and Joe Rice. After dinner Chris read us his letter to Kodai, over the student revolt crisis. His letter was courteous, diplomatic and constructive in suggestions—my opinion. He left it open ended for future communication. We thought the evening was over, but there was yet the disc jockey with his oldies, and the deck over the lake, lit with lights strung everywhere.  Enchanting!  So we danced for a time. We said goodbyes. Chris said he would come to our last breakfast. We all packed for return to the USA that night.

Nov 11 What mixed feelings we all had.  Sad to go, looking to get back to loved ones. It was the end of a fairytale experience and the beginning of renewed friendships. This class, like my husband Chet’s class, is close. It did not seem hard to take up the slack of acquaintance after all these years. Frequent themes from all our mouths: separation pain, feelings of abandon-ment, loneliness and lack of confidence. These feelings we all experienced, yet most of us never let on. We felt we were the only one who went through that. Despite that we had such camaraderie on hiking and camping trips in Kodai. We shared likes and dislikes of our teachers, dorms, dorm-mates. We remembered movies, places we all visited, such as Coakers Walk, the “Budge”, the Bund, and the Dishpan. We remembered: Miss Unruh, Mr. Krause, Miss Liddle, Miss Slifer, Mario di Georgio, Miss Dennison, Mrs. Root. We loaded into the buses and headed to the airport in Cape Town, and on to each our own destinations home. For this fabulous trip, the kindness and generosity shown us, the shared experience of almost the entire class united-- how can we adequately express thanks to Christian!!! We do thank you, Christian, from the deepest places in our hearts. You are a precious man. May the Lord keep you safe and healthy and happy. May you continue to find ways to bless South Africa, and everything you love.
Some great movies on Africa:  A Far Place, Blood Diamonds, The Power of One, Invictus, Cry of Freedom, African Queen, Out of Africa, and To Walk with Lions, Gorillas in the Mist.